On October 2026, our family spent a week independently traveling in Cyprus, a small island in the eastern Mediterranean. We rented a car and drove around the island, exploring archeological sites, dipping ur toes in the Mediterranean Sea, and hiking in the mountains. All of it while exploring ancient culture and eating the most delicious food! Cyprus truly is a superb destination, and we really enjoyed visiting it!
Getting There
Getting to Cyprus from Portugal is pretty straightforward, but it still took most of a day to get there. We chose to purchase two separate sets of tickets to keep cost low. We bought roundtrip tickets from Lisbon to Athens, and roundtrip tickets from Athens to Larnaca. Because of this, we decided to add a couple of days in Athens at the of our trip. We flew on Aegean Airlines and they were amazing! We were able to purchase a family ticket, we had boarding group 1 for all of our flights and, they served meals and drinks on every single flight, including the short 2-hour flight from Athens to Larnaca! That’s what airlines used to be like a long time ago! It was a wonderful experience!
Getting Around
We got around Cyprus by car. Driving felt like the easiest and most convenient option for exploring the island. We rented our car from a highly reviewed local agency called Formula Rent a Car and had a great experience. When we arrived to Larnaca at 2am, they had left the car in the parking lot, unlocked, and with the keys in the center console for us to just pick up! This made it so easy for us considering the late arrival time. It also showed us how safe Cyprus is!
Driving in Cyprus is on the same side as the UK, and they rely heavily on roundabouts for traffic flow. Make sure you are comfortable with both before renting a car there! We found driving pretty chill on the island, and the roads were in great shape too.
A Bit Of History
Cyprus has been inhabited since the Neolithic period (around 7000 BC). It later became an important centre under the Romans and Byzantines, before coming under the rule of the Lusignan dynasty (1192–1489), followed by the Venetians and Ottomans. Britain took control in 1878 and formally annexed the island in 1914, before Cyprus gained independence in 1960. Tensions between Greek Cypriots, who largely supported union with Greece (Enosis), and Turkish Cypriots led to intercommunal violence, followed by a Greek-backed coup in 1974 that prompted Turkey to invade the north.
The island has remained divided ever since, with the Republic of Cyprus governing the south and the self-declared Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), recognized only by Turkey, controlling the north, separated by a UN-patrolled buffer zone known as the Green Line. A a result of this, the capital Nicosia remains the only divided capital in the world. The southern part of the city is called Lefkosia now, though the locals still refer to it as Nicosia.
Itinerary
Day 1
As I mentioned, we arrived in Larnaca around 2am. We quickly got through immigration, and went to pick up our rental car. From the airport, we drove 10 minutes to La Veranda Larnaca hotel. We had also arranged for a very late checkout with the hotel, and they left our room keys in a lockbox inside the lobby. The process was super easy, and we were thankful for it given our arrival time.
Day 2: Drive from Larnaca to Paphos
The next morning we grabbed breakfast from our hotel (not included), and set off on our drive to Paphos. When researching places to stop along the way, we quickly realized that we would have to really choose where to stop. There is so much to see and do along the way. We literally spent the entire day sightseeing on your way to Paphos, and didn’t get anywhere close to seeing all the sights on our route!
Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque
Our first stop was Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque, just a 5-minute drive from our hotel. This Ottoman-style mosque is one of the most important Islamic pilgrimage sites in Cyprus, located on the western shore of Larnaca Salt Lake. The complex includes a mosque, minaret and mausoleum dedicated to Umm Haram, a woman associated with the early spread of Islam. Her tomb became a place of pilgrimage. The mosque is still used for worship today. Because the mosque sits beside the salt lake, you can go for walks around it and try to spot flamingos during the winter months. We saw some on our drive back to the airport at the end of our trip.
As a side note, there were tons of cats at this site. If you have children who love cats as much as ours do, they will love this site!
As with many mosques, you must cover shoulders and knees have to visit. That goes for both men and women, so two of us had to wear the robes available free of charge at the entrance in order to visit.
Panagia tis Aneloktistis
Our second stop was Panagia tis Aneloktistis in the town of Kiti. This 11th-century Byzantine church was built over the remains of a 5th-century early Christian basilica. Its main treasure is a rare 6th-century mosaic depicting the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus, flanked by the archangels Michael and Gabriel against a gold background. The mosaic is one of the finest examples of early Christian art in Cyprus. The name means “Our Lady Built by Angels,” referring to a local legend that angels constructed the church overnight. The church remains in use today.
Neolithic Settlement of Choirokoitia
Just a half hour down the road, our next stop was the Neolithic Settlement of Choirokoitia. This 9,000 year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the best-preserved prehistoric settlements in the eastern Mediterranean. Founded in the 7th millennium BC, the village was home to early farming communities who lived in circular houses made of stone and mudbrick, surrounded by defensive walls. At the bottom of the hill, before climbing to see the actual neolithic ruins, there are five reconstructed houses to help visitors understand how its inhabitants lived.
Governor’s Beach
After exploring the archeological site at Choirokoitia, we drove 15 minutes on the A1 to Governor’s Beach. Apparently, this black sand beach gets really crowded on weekends. Since we were there on a warm October Saturday, there were a few people at the beach, but it was not crowded at all. We parked on the lot behind the restaurant and walked to the beach. We rented a couple of loungers for an off-season price, ordered a beverage, and relaxed there for a while. The weather was nice enough to go for a swim, which was lovely!
Limassol (Lemesos)
From Governor’s Beach, we headed to Limassol (Lemesos) for lunch. We had chosen a gyro place for lunch, but it was closed when we got there (thanks Google!). Fortunately, there was a different gyro restaurant just down the street from it. The change of plans worked well and we had a delicious lunch there!
The original plan had been to go for a quick stroll along the Limassol waterfront promenade after lunch. Unfortunately, since we were trying to get to a different site before it closed, we had to skip it. As a consolation prize, we drove on the waterfront road instead. We enjoyed seeing how lively the waterfront promenade and park was. The promenade runs 16km along the coast, and it looked like a great place to go for a walk at any time of day!
Archeological Site of Kourion
After leaving Limassol, we drove a half hour to the Archeological Site of Kourion. This site is one of the island’s most important ancient city-kingdoms. Originally founded in antiquity, it flourished under Roman and Byzantine rule. This was truly a remarkable site! It is blessed with both archeological significance and spectacular views due to its clifftop location.
We started our exploration at the House of Estolios, which sits under a protective roof, and boasts some incredible mosaic floors.
The ruins also include a Greco-Roman theatre overlooking the Mediterranean. The theater was originally built in the second century BC, and rebuilt by the Romans in the second century AD. It seats 3,500 spectators and it’s still in use today for cultural events.
We stayed at this site until we were told we had to leave because they were closing. The late afternoon was a great time to visit as the ruins turned golden under the setting sun.
Aphrodite’s Rock
From Kourion, we were less than an hour away from Paphos. Before reaching our final destination, we made a quick stop to see Aphrodite’s Rock. Also known as Petra tou Romiou, and according to Greek mythology, this dramatic sea stack is where Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty, emerged from the sea foam. We arrived there with the last light of the day, which made it even more special.
From Aphrodite’s Rock, we drove to Paphos. After checking into our Airbnb and dropping off our bags, we walked to the city center to find dinner. In town, we ate at a restaurant called NOLA, which was pretty good, and had a lovely patio. Following dinner, we headed back to our Airbnb, and called it a night after a full day of exploring!
Day 3: Paphos
Our first full day in Paphos was packed with sightseeing, mainly of the archeological type. To start the day, we grabbed breakfast on the go, and headed straight to the Tombs of the Kings.
The Tombs of the Kings in Paphos are part of the Kato Paphos Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980. Dating from the Hellenistic and Roman periods, these monumental underground tombs were carved directly into solid rock to bury high-ranking officials and aristocrats rather than royalty. Some feature impressive Doric columns and spacious courtyards surrounded by chambers, designed to resemble the houses of the living. Their architecture bears similarities to tombs in Alexandria, reflecting the close connections between Cyprus and Egypt during the Hellenistic period.
We spent so much time exploring this site! We all loved it, and didn’t mind all the stairs we had to climb up and down. Our kids just kept going without complaining. Honestly, it is hard to not be taken over by your imagination when you are squeezing through narrow passages once used by looters to smuggle ancient artifact from secret chambers. This is a site not to be missed when in Paphos!
After exploring the Tombs of the Kings, we grabbed a smoothie and headed to the Archeological Site of Nea Paphos. This archaeological site, also known as the Paphos Archaeological Park, is a massive open-air museum and UNESCO World Heritage Site that contains some of the best preserved Roman mosaics in the world.
Our first stop in the park was the House of Aion. These 4th century AD mosaics bring to life five captivating mythological scenes: Leda and the Swan, the Epiphany of Dionysos, the beauty contest between Cassiopeia and the Nereids, the punishment of Marsyas and, at the centre of the composition, the god Aion, the personification of time, from whom the house takes its name. The mosaics were in incredible shape and just so impressive to see in person.
Next we walked over to the House of Theseus, which is one of the largest and most important Roman-era buildings in Cyprus, dating back to the 2nd century AD. This section is best know for its impressive mosaic depicting Theseus fighting the Minotaur, a famous Greek myth. This large mosaic was incredibly impressive. There is an elevated platform to allow people to see the mosaic from a better vantage point.
From the House of Theseus, we wandered around the site until we reached the House of Four Seasons. The house takes its name from the mosaic depicting the personification of the Four Seasons. The mosaic dates back to the first half of the 3rd century AD. There are many more mosaics in this house besides the Four Seasons one. A favorte one of mine was a black and white one of Scylla.
When we were done at the House of Four Seasons, we walked over to the Odeon. There we walked close to the 1888 lighthouse, and past the 7th century AD Saranta Kolones structure before exciting the park. We could have certainly spent more time at the park as there is so much to see in it.
We spent the afternoon swimming in the pool at our Airbnb.For dinner we atea delicious fish meze meal. The food was so good that I completely forgot to take a photo until they brought us complimentary dessert.
Day 4: Paphos
On our second full day in Paphos we drove an hour north to Avakas Gorge for a hike. The Gorge is located on the Akamas Peninsula, near Peyia in western Cyprus. Carved over thousands of years by the Avgas River, the gorge cuts through limestone cliffs that rise steeply above a narrow, rocky passage. Before entering the slot canyon, keep your eyes open for wildlife, like the Cyprus Rock Agama pictures below.
We did the short hike that follows a trail of approximately 1.2 km each way, taking you from an open valley into the cool, shaded gorge, where the path follows the stream between towering rock walls. The route is relatively short and has little elevation change, but walking over slippery rocks and crossing the stream can make it more challenging than expected. Wear sturdy shoes, and avoid entering during or after heavy rain, when the risk of flash flooding increases.
From Avakas Gorge, we had originally planned on visiting the Agios Neofytos Monastery, but we instead decided to visit the Tala Cats Sanctuary. Located near Agios Neofytos Monastery this non-profit, no-kill shelter cares for Cyprus’s stray and abandoned cats. The sanctuary currently cares for around 500 cats, providing food, veterinary treatment and shelter, including for injured and disabled animals. Since its beginning in 2011, it has rehomed more than 1,800 cats, with adoptions in Cyprus and abroad, including the UK, Germany, the Netherlands and the USA. The sanctuary relies entirely on donations and volunteers, and also supports neutering programmes to help control the island’s stray cat population. A truly great place to support if you have the chance while traveling in Cyprus. Our entire family absolutely loved it!
After another gyro lunch, and before heading back to Paphos, we stopped at Aphrodite Delights to buy Loukoumia. Loukoumia is what the rest of the world calls Turkish Delight, but indeed this has a Protected Geographical Indication like Champagne for example. Aphrodite Delights has a wonderful tasting room and great prices, so we bought a ton of loukoumie to bring home!
Back in Paphos, we had a delicious dinner at Agora Tavern in Paphos Old Town. This is a lovely traditional place in a pink building, with vintage décor and a great outdoor terrace. We opted for the traditional meat Cypriot meze, and enjoyed plate after plate of dips, halloumi, grilled vegetables and local meat dishes. We ordered three meze for the four of us and it was more than enough food, so come hungry! Reservations are a must if you want to eat there.
Day 5: Drive from Paphos to Lefkosia
We could’ve driven to Lefkosia from Paphos in less than two hours on the coastal road. Instead, we chose the scenic route and drove to Lefkosia via the Troodos Mountains. Like we did on our way to Paphos, we took the day to explore different places along the way.
Our first stop was Omodos Village. This is one of the Troodos’ most popular villages, and with good reason. This traditional village is laid out around a large pedestrianized cobbled square filled with cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating. We stopped at a cute cafe for snacks and hot beverages. The weather up the mountains was a lot cooler than by the coast.
In Omodos we also visited the Timiou Stavrou Monastery. Outside the monastery there is a statue commemorating a past abbot who was one of the almost 500 Greek Cypriots beheaded or hanged in Lefkosia by the Turkish authorities during the Greek War of Independence on July 1821. The inside of the monastery is now a church that you can visit for free.
Our next stop was Millomeris Waterfall hike, just a 10-minute drive away. This was a great hike to do to get a taste of the trails in this region. The trail is a 2 km route, out and back, leading to a waterfall that drops approximately 15–20 metres into a rocky gorge. The trail begins near Panagia Faneromeni Church and takes around 45 minutes one way. The waterfall is one of the highest in the Troodos region, and it is beautiful! There is a restaurant by the waterfall where you can get a refreshment, and use the bathroom.
After hiking to the waterfall, our plan was to go to the Church of St. Nicholas of the Roof. This 11th-century Middle Byzantine monastery is the only surviving monastery-church in Cyprus during the 11th century. It is also one of the ten Painted Churches in the Troodos Region. These ten churches were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985 because of their outstanding frescoes and testimony to the history of Byzantine rule in Cyprus. Unfortunately, because we were there during Ohi Day (a national holiday), the church was closed and we were not able to visit.
Fortunately, the town of Kakopetria is just a 5-minute drive away from the church, so that’s where we headed instead. Kakopetri means “bad stones,” deriving from the many large rocks swept down from Olympus during primordial times. You can still see these rocks in the foundations of some of the houses. One such stone is the “Stone of the Couple,” which was known for bringing good luck to newlyweds who would walk around its base, climb onto it, and make a wish. Unfortunately, the stone shifted one day and killed a couple in the process, so it is now attached to the ground with concrete!
The Old Town of Kakopetria is a true delight to walk around! We wandered around the alleys and saw the old houses while hearing the sound of the nearby river. Many local residents were selling pickled delicacies in front of their houses along the way. Such a pretty old town to explore!
From Kakopetria we continued our drive all the way to Lefkosia. After checking into our hotel, we set off to explore. We decided we wanted to cross into the TRNC to check it out, and also because who doesn’t love a foot crossing, right? We grabbed our passport and headed to the Ledras Border Crossing.
The crossing was uneventful, and we quickly found ourselves on the other side of the Green Line. The main difference we saw was the that northern side was a lot less busy than the southern side. It did feel like we had switched places in a certain way. The streets reminded me of the old bazaar in Skopje, North Macedonia. Other than that, we felt safe and comfortable to walk around and explore a bit.
I had seen photos of a really cool bookstore in the TRNC, so that’s where we went to. Rüstem Kitabeti bookstore and cafe is just a 10-minute walk from the border, and it’s certainly a unique place to visit! My son, who is a bibliophile, told me he loved the energy of the place even though the books were arranged in a non-sensical way. I found a book of Turkish phrases and bought it for our upcoming trip to Türkiye. This bookstore was certainly worth the visit!
Once we were done browsing books, we walked back to the border and crossed into Lefkosia. Beware that this crossing is only open until 8pm, so you want to make sure to cross back before then. There are other crossings that are open 24 hours, but you’d have to get there.
Day 6: Day Trip to the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus
We chose to spend a night in Lefkosia because we wanted to spend a day to exploring the TRNC, and that’s what we did. We got up early and headed to the north via the Kermia Crossing.
Logistics
Many car rentals on the south will not allow you to take their car to the north, so make sure you check with them beforehand. Another thing to keep in mind is that your insurance from the south will not cover you in the north. Luckily, getting insurance is pretty easy and you can do it right at the border crossing (the immigration officer will tell you where). We paid 20 euro for a 3-day insurance policy. You will need the rental contract from your rental company to purchase insurance, so make sure you have that readily available.
We also got and E-Sim with Airalo that covered the north. If you cross and don’t turn off your data, you’ll incur roaming charges. We also downloaded a map of the entire island onto our phones. Supposedly, the signage is not the best on the north. We actually found that signs were good to get to all the places we wanted to reach, but the border crossing wasn’t really signed except for the area near it.
Route
We spent most of the day driving around the north. We were able to visit three out of the four main sites, and we really enjoyed all of them! Our guide book made it sound like it would be challenging to travel in the north, but that wasn’t our experience. Driving was easy, we were able to pay with card most everywhere, and you could really tell that the north is not quite as closed off to the world as it once was.
Saint Hilarion Castle
Our first stop in the occupied north was Saint Hilarion Castle. Dramatically perched on a rocky crag with ruined turrets, towers and windows, this castle looks like one from a picture book! Originally a monastery, and converted into a castle in the eighth century AD by the Byzantines in response to repeated Arab raids. Most of what we see today was built by the Lusignans in 1228. The castle remained an important site until the Venetians took over in 1489, and has since then fallen into disrepair.
The climb to St. Hilarion Castle in the Kyrenia Mountains follows steep stone staircases and winding paths through three levels of fortifications, passing defensive towers, a Byzantine church, ruined halls and the former royal apartments. The final ascent leads to the upper towers and the Gothic Queen’s Window, with views over the northern coast of Cyprus. The views were incredible from up there!
Visiting Saint Hilarion Castle was definitely a highlight, but it wasn’t the easiest place to visit because you really have to climb up lots and lots of stairs. I wouldn’t recommend this site to anyone with mobility issues, or not used to walking. Sturdy shoes are a must, and I would avoid this site if it’s raining as I can only imagine the stone steps would become very slippery.
Girne (Kyrenia)
Our second stop of the day was Girne (Kyrenia). Girne is said to be the most beautiful town in Cyprus, and it owns this label to its beautiful harbour, Venetian castle, and a backdrop of sharp and craggy mountains. We really enjoyed visiting, and also thought it was beautiful. It has a lot more charm and natural beauty than most of its coastal counterparts in the south. This is, apparently, due to the mountains bringing cooler and thus a greener landscape to this area.
In Girne, we headed straight to the Girne Castle.This castle has a complicated architectural history as it’s been adapted, destroyed, and rebuilt again many times. The Byzantines built a castle there in the tenth century AD, and it was later extended and reinforced by the Lusignans. Its current form took shape under the Venetians in the sixteenth century. The castle fell to the Ottomans in 1570 after the Venetians surrendered. The British used the castle as a prison and a police academy during the late 1950s.
For us, there were two highlights in visiting this castle: The Shipwreck Museum, and the Lusignan Dungeon. The Shipwreck Museum exhibits a 15 meter-long Greek merchant ship dating from 300BC! The ship was discovered off the coast of Girne in 1965, and among the cargo they found 400 wine amphorae, thousands of almonds preserved in jars, and 19 millstones.
The Lusignan Dungeon has waxwork displays that show some of the types of torture used in the dungeons in the early 1300s. These displays can be particularly graphic, including a naked man being stretched on a wheel, so enter at your own discretion. The stories about the people held there are also quite grim, but still very interesting.
After visiting the castle, we went for a quick stroll on the waterfront. Because it started raining heavily, we ducked into a cafe and enjoyed delicious Turkish coffee and a couple of sweet treats.
Bellapais Abbey
Our third and final stop in the north was Bellapais Abbey. This ruined abbey is located in the colorful town of Bellapais. The townfeatures narrow streets, steep hills, and stunning views of the Girne’s modern harbour. It is a lovely town! The medieval abbey is said to be one of the most beautiful in the eastern Mediterranean.
Some blogs say that visiting the Abbey involves a big climb, however we just parked right next to the Abbey. If you visit, park here, and then walk 5 minutes to the Abbey’s entrance.
Bellapais Abbey is a Gothic monastery dating mainly from the 13th and 14th centuries. The best-preserved section is the church. The central cloister features 18 arches and two reused Roman sarcophagi that once served as washbasins for the monks.
The main highlight is the large Gothic refectory. This is where the monks ate. It has tall windows, a rose window and a carved stone coat of arms above the entrance. You can also explore the remains of the chapter house and other monastic rooms, climb the stone steps to the upper levels, and see views across Kyrenia and the Mediterranean from the abbey grounds. We didn’t go up to the upper levels because it was raining, but still explored the rest of the site and absolutely loved it!
Once we were done visiting the Abbey, we grabbed lunch from a nearby restaurant. Since we were in the north, instead of gyros, we ate shawarma and it was pretty good! From lunch we drove back to Lefkosia.
Lefkosia is really a super fun and vibrant capital city! You could easily spend some days there and not run out of things to do. As I mentioned, Nicosia is the only split capital city in the world. But that aside, Lefkosia felt lively and very cosmopolitan. There are museums, parks, and lots of good eating and shopping there!
Once back in Lefkosia we stopped for a little shopping, and a walk in Eleftheria Park (Plateia Eleftherias). The park connects the old walled city of Lefkosia with the modern city, and incorporates landscaped public spaces along the former Venetian moat. The space includes walking paths, water features, seating areas, and lots of shade. A wonderful oasis in the heart of the city!
From Lefkosia we drove back to Larnaca, where we stayed at the same airport hotel as before. The next morning we said good bye to Cyrpus and drove to the airport.
Day 7: Fly home
On our last morning, we drove to the airport to catch our fight. An employee from the rental car company met us at the departures lot, and we returned our car without any issue. From Larnaca we flew to Athens, and spent the next 3 days exploring the Greek capital.
Final Thoughts
Even though we packed our trip with as much sightseeing as possible, we only got to see a small fraction of what Cyprus has to offer. This tiny mediterranean island is so rich in history, you can’t really take it all in in one visit. We could’ve easily spent weeks exploring! If we ever go back, I’d like to spend more time enjoying the great outdoors in the Troodos Mountains. I would also like to spend more time in Nicosia, soaking up the great vibes and culture of the city. Finally, I would probably make more of an effort to see more of the Painted Churches as this time we didn’t get the chance.
As a last note, Cyprus really has some of the best preserved Roman mosaics in the world. We’ve been lucky to have visited some of the best ones in other countries as well. If you’d like to learn more about where to see some of the best Roman mosaics in the world, check out my posts on Tunisia, and on Conimbriga in Portugal.
We are a family of four who moved to Portugal in July 2024. We love exploring our new home country, and enjoy sharing our adventures with others. To learn about our adventures in Portugal, click here. To read about other destinations, visit our Places section or select a destination from the drop down menu.
