We hadn’t planned on visiting Madeira at all. In fact, this trip started with a cancelled getaway to the Austrian Alps after the forecast promised nothing but rain. Searching for a last-minute alternative from Lisbon, Madeira popped up as the best deal—and what a lucky twist that turned out to be. With its gorgeous hiking trails, sunny weather, wild beaches, and more affordable prices, it didn’t just match our Alps plans—it completely outshone them. In this post, I’ll share all the details and little tips from our trip, along with all we did so you can plan your own Madeira adventure.
Getting There
Getting to Madeira from Lisbon is very easy! The flight is only one and a half hours long, and as Madeira is part of Portugal, there’s no immigration or customs to clear! You can fly direct to Madeira from many European cities, and also from New York in the United States.
Getting Around
The best way to get around Madeira is by car, so I strongly recommend you rent one. We personally enjoy the flexibility and freedom of having our own vehicle to explore. That being said, driving in Madeira is not the easiest due to the fact that roads are curvy, narrow, and sometimes steep. Alternatively, you could try using Uber to get around, or you could hire someone to drive you around. There are many tour operators you could hire to see the island.
We rented our car from OK Mobility and had a pretty good experience overall. One tip if you are renting a car in Madeira is to save the receipt when you fill up the tank before returning your car. They will ask to see it to check when you filled up the tank. Also, during our travels, we’ve learned that it is better to take a video of the car before driving off with it. We try to record all the little dings and dents in case we are blamed for any of them.
Where To Stay
Because we decided to travel to Madeira at the last second, we had limited options for lodging within our budget. We ended up finding a nice apartment in Câmara De Lobos, a small town about a 15-20-minute drive from Funchal. This town was celebrating the Festa do Peixe Espada Preto (Black Swordfish Festival) during the weekend we were there, so it was fun being there for it! Even if you don’t stay in Câmara De Lobos, I think the town is definitely worth a visit!
If you want to be close to lots of restaurants and shops, then you should stay in Funchal. Funchal is a fun small city packed with restaurants, and lots to see and do within walking distance. Another perk of staying in Funchal is that most roads lead to Funchal, so it’s really well connected. Prices for food and accommodation in Funchal seemed a bit higher.
Next time we visit Madeira, we’d like to stay on the north shore to be closer to more trailheads. We’d probably choose somewhere in or around Seixal for a future stay.
Madeira Food
Madeira offers an enjoyable culinary experience that includes fresh, local ingredients and traditional Portuguese cooking. Some of the most popular foods include:
Estepada Madeirense is a beef skewer grilled over open flames. In most places you’ll be able to choose other meats like chicken and sausage.
Bolo do caco is a flatbread often served with garlic butter. We ordered bolo do caco with every meal as it was a big hit with all of us! The bread comes out quickly, so it’s perfect for when you have hungry kids with you!
Bolo do caco com chorizo is a warm bolo do caco stuffed with smoky chorizo pieces. It is delicious, and the perfect beach food snack!
Espada com banana is one of Madeira’s specialties, and is showcases two of the main foods in the island: black scabbard fish and bananas.
The Poncha is a traditional alcoholic drink made with aguardiente de cana, honey, sugar, and some type of fruit juice. I personally really enjoyed the poncha de maracujá.
Brisa is a tasty local soda. You can choose from many flavors like pineapple or lime, but the most popular is definitely maracujá (passion fruit).
Bolo de Mel is a rich, spiced honey cake made with sugarcane molasses, nuts, and dried fruit, traditionally baked for Christmas but enjoyed year-round on the island. You can find these bolos pretty much anywhere.
The sandes de espada (scabbard fish sandwich) is a Madeiran favorite, made with crispy fried black scabbard fillets tucked into fresh bread. We tried it at the market in Câmara De Lobos and absolutely loved it!
Hiking in Madeira
Hiking in Madeira is wonderful! Trails are clearly marked and well-maintained. All the hikes we did had a place nearby where we could get food either before or after the hike, and there were restrooms too.
As of January 1, 2025, Madeira implemented a €3 hiking fee for non-residents aged 12 and above on all official PR trails across the island . This initiative aims to support trail maintenance, conservation, and sustainable tourism.
To pay, visitors must use the Simplifica platform at least 24 hours before hiking . On the portal you need to select your trail, date, and number of hikers, then pay the €3 per person (ages 12+) by credit card or other accepted method. Save proof of payment in case there is someone checking at the trailhead. We were asked for proof of payment at two of the hikes. Failure to present proof of payment on the trail may result in fines up to €50.
Residents of Madeira are exempt from this fee but must provide proof of residency.
Another important aspect of hiking in Madeira is being ready for sudden changes in the climate. It is wise to always carry a warm layer with you. We had light rain jackets with us, and they came in handy when rain rolled in unexpectedly!
Last, but not least, you are never too far away from food when hiking in Madeira! All of our hikes had at least one cafe at some point on the trail. One of the hikes even had one at the start and a second one towards the end. This makes it really easy to hike with kids as you can always get more snacks and drinks if you need to. Our kids enjoyed getting a pastry at the end of two of the hikes, and they were both delicious!
6-Day Itinerary
My main goal for this trip was to spend as much time as possible outside, hiking and exploring, so this itinerary is mostly hiking oriented.
Day 1
We took an early flight out of Lisbon and arrived in Madeira at around 9am, so we used the day to explore Funchal. We planned a full day of exploring in Funchal, parked the car at this lot, and set off to explore.
First we rode the Teleférico Funchal-Monte up to the Monte Palace Gardens. I strongly recommend you buy your tickets online to skip the ticket line, which can get quite long. We bought one-way tickets because we had other plans for the way back down. The 5-minute ride was super fun, and the views were spectacular! This cable car is a bit pricey, especially when compared to all other cable cars on the island, but it is worth it if you want to visit the gardens.
The Jardim Monte Palace is a 2-minute walk away from the teleférico exit. These gardens are considered to be one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the world, and with good reason! These beautiful gardens were once a private mansion, then a hotel, and now they are a lovely place to visit when in Madeira! We spent about 2 hours walking around the different landscaped areas, including many fountains, lakes, and a Japanese garden, just to name a few.
From the gardens, we walked a short distance to the Carreiros do Monte. The Carreiros do Monte are traditional wicker toboggan drivers in Madeira who skillfully steer two-seater sledges down the steep streets from Monte to Funchal—a unique island tradition dating back to the 19th century. We had to wait in line for almost an hour to ride the toboggans, but it was certainly worth it! I definitely recommend doing this when in Madeira!
The Carrieros do Monte leave you half way down the hill to Funchal so you still have to make your way down there. There is a taxi stand right next to the end of the ride, but taxis were charing 25 Euros for what was no more than a 10 minute ride, so we decided to walk down instead. The walk down was super easy, and we even stopped for lunch at a cute local restaurant/hotel with good food and great views!
Our next stop was the CR7 Museum. If you are a Cristiano Ronaldo or a football fan, then you should definitely visit this museum. This museum celebrates the career of Madeira’s most famous person, Cristiano Ronaldo. It showcases his trophies, awards, and even fan mail! Outside the museum there is the iconic (but oddly proportioned) bronze statue of Ronaldo if you fancy a photo with it!
After the museum we enjoyed a nice walk on the waterfront on the way back to the parking lot. Along the way we stopped at the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption. This cathedral dates back to the early 1500s. Afterwards we checked out the Mercado de Lavradores to get a piece of fruit for the road. The market was cute and totally worth a visit if you enjoy local markets.
Day 2
Because of the 4am wake up call the day before, we chose to sleep in a bit and hit the trail a bit later in the morning. We chose Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço (PR8) for our first hike. This is a very popular hike, so we’d knew there’d be lots of people there, especially arriving later in the morning. We hit the trailhead around 10 and the parking lot was already full. Fortunately, we found a parking spot on the side of the road not too far away.
Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço (PR8) is a stunning 7km round trip coastal trail on Madeira’s easternmost peninsula, offering dramatic volcanic cliffs, and sweeping ocean views at every turn. The landscape on this part of the island is truly unlike anywhere else in Madeira. The hike has an elevation gain of roughly 400 meters (1,310 feet) spread across several short but steep climbs (many of them on stairs!) along the trail.
Halfway along the PR8 trail, you’ll reach Casa do Sardinha, a small café and visitor center tucked into a former farmhouse. It’s the perfect place to rest in the shade, grab a cool drink or snack, or eat your bagged lunch like we did. The restaurant has a restroom. You have to pay 1 Euro to use it.
After the hike, we drove to Praia de Machico. Praia do Machico is a golden-sand beach, framed by calm waters and mountain scenery. Its soft sand was imported from Western Sahara, which makes it unique in an island of volcanic beaches. This spot is definitely popular with the locals, and a great beach for families with kids!
Day 3
We got up at 6am, and were at the trailhead by 7:30am to hike Levada das 25 Fontes (PR6). This is one of Madeira’s most popular hikes, which takes you along a historic levada–an irrigation channel built to carry water through the mountains–deep into the Laurisilva forest. The route is about 9 km round trip with roughly 300 meters (1,000 feet) of elevation gain. I’d say this trail is moderate, due to the mix of narrow levada paths and some uphill sections with lots of stairs! Along the way, you’ll pass ferns, mossy cliffs, and several cascades before arriving at the 25 waterfalls tumbling into a crystalline pool. There’s a short detour earlier on the trail that takes you to an overlook of the tallest waterfall in Madeira.
To reach the official start of the trail, there’s a 2 km downhill walk from the Rabaçal parking area (or you can take the shuttle, which runs roughly 11 am–6 pm daily, adults cost 5 Euros). Since we arrived early, we walked down to the start of the trail. On the way back, we opted to wait for the shuttle. Beware that the later you start and finish the trail, the longer you’ll have to wait for the shuttle. There is a small cafe at the start of the trail that offers snacks, drinks, and toilets, making it a perfect pre- or post-hike stop.
After the hike, we drove 15 minutes to the Fanal Forest. This forest is home to centuries-old Ocotea foetens trees. These trees are only found in Madeira, the Azores, and the Canary Islands. When visiting this forest you can’t miss the “Witch Tree.” We arrived to the forest with very tired kids, but this space was so cool, they forgot about it and were super happy to explore all over! The cows roaming the fields around the forest were definitely a plus too!
From the Fanal Forest, we drove to Seixal to find a place to grab some food and a drink. We ended up at this local restaurant where we tried estepadas and refreshments with a stunning view of the Seixal coast. Afterwards we drove back to Camara de Lobos and spent the rest of the day there enjoying the Festa do Peixe Espada Preto.
Day 4
On Day 4 we hiked Vereda do Pico Ruivo (PR 1.2). Vereda do Pico Ruivo is a 5.6 km round-trip hike with about 400m of elevation gain, starting from Achada do Teixeira’s café and climbing along well-paved mountain paths and stone steps. A small café halfway up offers a rest before the final steep ascent to Madeira’s highest peak, where the sweeping 360° views will blow your mind!
After the hike we drove towards Seixal, and stopped at a roadside restaurant where we ate the most delicious estepadas, bolo do caco, salad and fries! Our approach to finding places to eat is to look at Google Maps and choose whatever is in the area that has good reviews. This approach has led us to find some of the best local gems in our travels!
After lunch we drove to the Porto Moniz Natural Swimming Pools. These crystal-clear saltwater pools were formed by volcanic lava rock and naturally filled by the ocean. Entry costs €3 (skip the line by buying your tickets online!), and their unique formation creates calm, sheltered spots for swimming while waves crash dramatically against the surrounding rocks. This place is super fun for the entire family, and there are lifeguards onsite. If you are visiting here, I’d recommend either walking carefully or wearing water-shoes. Our son fell a couple of times because the ground was quite slippery. Fortunately, he didn’t hurt himself.
Day 5
We saved our biggest (and best!) hike for last! On day 5, we woke up super early again and set off to hike Levada do Caldeirão Verde (PR9). This 13km out-and-back hike with about 1,300m (4,300 feet) of elevation gain, follows a narrow levada path carved onto the mountain side.
The trail starts near a small restaurant at the Queimadas Forestry Park, and passes through three tunnels, sheer cliffs, and mossy waterfalls before reaching the spectacular Caldeirão Verde—a deep, emerald-green basin fed by a 100m cascade. This trail was truly spectacular! Both our kids were in awe at the beauty of the Caldeirão Verde when we reached it!
Caldeirão Verde was our favorite hike, but I wouldn’t recommend this trail to families with younger kids who can’t be put on a backpack or carrier. There are sheer drops and narrow paths that require focus, especially when passing others on the trail. Make sure you have a headlamp or a phone torch to guide you through the tunnels. One of the tunnels was a bit flooded when we went through it, so I certainly recommend wearing waterproof shoes on this hike. Also, this was the only trail where we had to pay parking. The machine only accepts cash, so be prepared for that.
After our hike, we drove to the town of Santana to grab lunch and to visit the Santana Tradicional Houses. The Santana traditional houses are small, A-frame cottages with steep thatched roofs, brightly painted facades, and flower-filled gardens, once common across rural Madeira. Today, they’re preserved in Santana as a cultural attraction, offering a glimpse into the island’s historic way of life.
Our next stop was the Praia do Porto do Seixal. This beautiful black-sand beach on Madeira’s north coast is framed by lush green cliffs and beautiful views of the Atlantic. It is stunningly beautiful! The beach sits in a naturally sheltered bay, protected by the surrounding cliffs and a breakwater, making it ideal for swimming, which is not common on the north shore of the island.
We finished our day back in Câmara De Lobos were we finally tried ponchas at Bar Filhos D’ Mar. This rustic bar is famous for its traditional poncha as well as for its Cristiano Ronaldo memorabilia decorations. The decor reflects the owner’s friendship with Ronaldo, who stops by whenever he’s in town! The drinks were tasty, the decor super cool, and the ambiance perfect! As with everywhere in Portugal, our kids were received with arms wide open here.
Day 6
On our last day, we returned our car in the late morning and then headed to the airport to wait for our flight home to Lisbon. The Cristiano Ronaldo Airport in Madeira is certainly one of the best island airports we’ve ever been in. There were tons of food options in the waiting areas, lots of places to sit and rest, and a cool observation deck to watch the planes come and go.
To learn more about our adventures in Portugal, visit this page. For all of our other travels, visit this page.
