Once an important Silk Road stop, Khiva’s inner town, Itchan Kala, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that showcases beautifully preserved examples of Muslim architecture in Central Asia. The old town is like an open air museum, and only people who operate guesthouses actually live in it. Ten meter high brick walls protect the inner city, making it easy to imagine what the city looked like back in the time of the Silk Road.
On our second morning in Uzbekistan we caught a 7 a.m. flight from Tashkent to Urgench, the closest airport to Khiva. We landed in Urgench an hour later, and then drove less than an hour to Itchan Kala, the old town of Khiva. We had prearranged transport so there was someone waiting for us to take us to our guesthouse.
If you are planning a trip to Uzbekistan with kids, you should definitely add Khiva to your itinerary! We flew to Khiva because it was the farthest city we wanted to visit. From there, we made our way back to Tashkent slowly and stopping in other cities along the way.
We basically had 24 hours to explore Khiva, and we felt it was good enough to get a good feel for the city. Many people come to Khiva on day trips, which means that the city gets really quiet and peaceful in the early morning and later in the afternoon,. This to me is reason enough to spend at least one night in Khiva.
We explored the old town organically. We simply walked around, admired the stunning Islamic architecture, and poked our heads into any building that looked interesting. You really can’t go wrong! Here are some photos of the places we loved the most (spoiler alert, it’s pretty much everything we saw in Khiva!):
Kuhna Ark. Built in the 17th century by the Khan of Khiva, Muhammad Erenke, this fortress was expanded over the years to include the Khan’s mosque, the residence, the Supreme Court, and more. The entrance to the ark is flanked by two beautiful towers decorated with blue tiles, so it’s hard to miss. Inside we saw beautifully tiled rooms, and met a couple of friendly ladies who gave our kids some gifts.
Kalta Minor Minaret. Construction on the large, turquoise-tiled minaret began in 1851 by Mohammad Amin Khan. Legend has it that he wanted to build a minaret so high he could see all the way to Bukhara. Sadly, the khan died in 1855, and the structure was never completed! Even as it stands unfinished, the minaret is still very impressive.
Juma Mosque. This mosque was first documented in the 10th century, and then rebuilt in the late 1700s, and is one of the main monuments in Itchan Kala. One of the cool facts about this mosque is that the flat roof on it is supported by 212 beautifully carved wooden columns in 17 rows! It is truly a beautiful and unique place to visit.
Islam Khoja Minaret. Climbing to the top of this minaret was one of the most memorable experiences of our time in Khiva! This minaret is the symbol of Khiva, and you can see it from pretty much anywhere in the old town at 56.6 meters tall. As you climb up, the minaret narrows, and the steps get quite tall. Our 7-year old had to climb up steps that were up to her thigh! We all ended up using our hands and feet since the steps were so steep. We all got to the top with shaky legs, but it was so worth it. Just watch your head as you go up and down!
We used hands and feet to climb up the last stretch to reach the top of the minaret!
This is the view from the top. Very impressive!
After climbing the minaret, we went on to find a snack and ended up at Teahouse Farrukh. This was our first experience with tea houses in Uzbekistan and it did not disappoint!
After the tea house we wandered around the bustling narrow streets of the old town. At one of the markets we bought a couple of camel wool scarfs and admired all the beautiful crafts for sale.
We then grabbed lunch at the restaurant located in the former Tolib Maxim Madrassa. We ordered Shivit Oshi, a local pasta dish that is bright green. To give it its color, noodle makers influence the dough using fresh dill. Shivit Oshi is topped with some beef stew and a side of tangy yogurt. It was really tasty, and you should definitely try it if you visit Khiva.
Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum. This stunning mausoleum hosts the tomb of Khiva’s patron saint Pahlavan Mahmud. Mahmud was know for being a generous man who helped the poor and the oppressed. The mausoleum was built in the 1700s after he was made a saint.
With its beautiful turquoise dome (the largest in Khiva), and shining light turquoise tiles decorating the inside wall, this is truly one of the most beautiful sites in Khiva!
After exploring the inside of the mausoleum, we headed outside to see the unmarked tombs of other khans.
Khiva City Walls. You can actually walk along the northwestern section of Khiva’s old town walls. The stairs are located at the North Gate, which is also where you buy your entrance tickets for it. It can get hot up on the walls, so don’t make our mistake of going in the heat of the day–it’d be better to go around sundown!
Once the sun started going down, we headed to the Terrassa Restaurant for dinner. We were lucky to snatch a table at their rooftop terrace because they were mostly booked. The food was good and the view was even better! Definitely recommend it!
The kids couldn’t get enough of these yummy dips!
After dinner, we took a walk and saw the city quiet down. Market stalls closed, tourists left, and the local kids came out to play. Only a handful of foreigners were still around like us. This was such a special time to have in this beautiful Silk Road stop! Definitely a must stop when traveling to Uzbekistan with kids.
The next morning we were up with the sun, so we went for one last walk. For about an hour, we were the only ones out there walking with the exception of the city people cleaning up. Once again the light was beautiful, turning everything a warm orange.
After our nice morning stroll we headed back to our guesthouse for breakfast, and to get ready for the next leg of our journey: a roadtrip to Bukhara with stops at the Khorezm Fortresses.
To read more about our travels in Uzbekistan, click here.
