Over Thanksgiving Break 2022, our family took a trip to San Diego to visit Legoland. Legoland was our kids’ early Christmas present, and it caught them totally by surprise. After a day there, we headed over to Death Valley National Park to spend the rest of the break there. I wanted to share what we did at the park, as well as the cool sites we saw on our way in and out of the park.
Scenic Stops Between Carlsbad And Death Valley NP
We made two stops along the way to split the 5ish hour drive from Carlsbad to Death Valley National Park:
Calico Ghost Town Regional Park
Our first stop was Calico Ghost Town Reginal Park in San Bernardino, after driving for 2.5 hours. Joe and I had visited this site back in 2010 when we moved from Minnesota to California. This was a quick stop and we both remember having a lot of fun exploring this town. Though we don’t remember it being so lively (we think we probably arrived after it closed, but who knows).
Anyway, this is a fun place to explore. There are hiking trails in the mountains around the town, the historic buildings are well preserved, you can ride on an old locomotive, and you can even walk through some old mining tunnels. This last one was a big hit because usually old mining tunnels are too dangerous for the general public to visit. We spent a bit over an hour checking out the ghost town. We could’ve stayed longer but we had one more stop to make, and wanted to reach Death Valley before nighttime.
China Ranch Date Farm
Our second stop was at the China Ranch Date Farm. This is a historic oasis with an interesting history. We got there just as the sun was starting to go down, and the entire oasis was glowing in golden light. It was gorgeous!
The China Ranch Date Farm is currently family owned and operated, but the area has been inhabited for over a thousand years. There are lots of hiking trails nearby, including the Old Spanish Trail and an old railroad bed. At the ranch you can buy several kinds of dates that are grown on site (check out their incredible palm tree grove that was planted from seed back in the early 1920s!), date nut bread, muffins, cookies, and even date milkshakes!
The ranch is located just a bit over an hour from Death Valley, and only 85 miles west of Las Vegas, and it truly is a very unique place to visit. It’s a bit off the main road, and really feels like arriving to an oasis. If you have the time, I recommend you visit this place. You won’t regret it! There is also a Hipcamp site at the ranch, if you are interested in spending the night there.
Death Valley National Park
After the farm, we drove straight to Death Valley National Park and arrived there right as the sun had set. Because we hadn’t been able to find available campsites for our dates, we’d opted to stay at one of the lodges in the park. We stayed at The Ranch and it worked well for our family. The lodge definitely needs some updating, but it does the trick. One big plus of staying at the lodge was using the pool one day when it was hot. They have a spring-fed pool and also a nice kids’ playground.
We spent most of our days in Death Valley outside. We even packed our own food and gear to cook outside, like we would if we were camping. This approach worked particularly well because the restaurants at the lodges are very pricey and the buffet was not that good. Also, the convenience store doesn’t really carry much food, so you are better off packing in your own. We ate at the buffet the first night we were there and didn’t love it. Note that the options are very slim if you are a vegetarian, unless couscous is enough for dinner for you!
Here’s what we did during our 3 full days in Death Valley National Park:
Artist’s Palette Drive
The 9-mile long one-way Artists Drive Scenic Loop takes you through some interesting hills to the Artist’s Palette. This is the highlight of the drive, but don’t overlook the rest of the landscape as there are lots of other fun stops along the way.
We took most of a morning exploring around the one-way road that leads you through this area. There is a proper stop where the painted hills are really dramatic, but we also loved finding hidden canyons, gorgeous viewpoints, and empty secret little trails! If you visit, make sure you take your time exploring wherever you want to! The beauty of this park is that is pretty open to exploration as long as you are respectful of the landscape!
When we first visited Death Valley in August 2007 on our way to Las Vegas from San Francisco, we attempted to drive the Artist’s Palette loop, but had to turn around pretty quickly because our old Honda couldn’t handle going up the hill in the 120 degree August heat! As we cautiously made our way down driving the wrong way on a one-way road, we were pulled over by a ranger who questioned us pretty seriously. It was a memorable stop for sure. When we went back to Death Valley in December 2010 (much more sensible time of year to visit!), we drove the loop and only stopped at Artist’s Palette. On this visit we were able to properly explore this space, and I’m so happy we did!
Not all sites in Death Valley National Park involve hiking. In fact, some of the park’s most famous attractions are a short walk from the parking lots. All of these sites could be visited in one morning, depending on how much time you want to spend in each. We visited the first two sites after driving the Artist’s Palette loop and were done by lunch time.
Badwater Basin
This is the lowest point in North America at 282 ft below sea level. The pool (during winter) and boardwalk are easily accessible from the parking lot, but you’ll have to walk a flat 1.5-2 mile out and back to see the best salt polygons. The walk is a little tedious, and we’d recommend spending your kids’ hiking energy somewhere else. Also, bring lots of water, even during the winter months!
Devil’s Golf Course
This is a large area of rock salt eroded by wind and rain into jagged spires. It’s so sharp that “only the devil could play golf on such rough links.” If you listen carefully, you can hear tiny pops and pings from tiny salt crystals bursting apart as they expand and contract in the heat!
Harmony Borax Works
This 0.4-mile walk takes you around a mining site where you can see the adobe ruins and a 20-mule team wagon. There are some informative signs that explain borax processing and what life was like in the mine.
Mesquite Flats Sand Dunes
We finished our first full day in Death Valley with a visit to the Mesquite Sand Dunes at sunset. The kids loved this stop, and we spent a good two hours playing in the dunes. Even though we didn’t get all the way to the biggest dune (like we did back in 2010), we still managed to make it far enough that we were able to get away from the crowds. I don’t remember seeing so many people at the dunes last time we visited, but I guess it’s just become a more popular park in the last 10 years.
The dunes are especially beautiful at sunrise or sunset. We went at sunset and were wowed by the colors in the sky, as well as the shadows casted by the dunes. Definitely recommend you visit at sunset, especially if you are planning on photographing the dunes. It’s also a super fun place for kids to play.
Golden Canyon Hike
Our first proper hike in Death Valley was Golden Canyon Hike. We chose the route that takes you to Red Cathedral for a moderate 3+ mile out and back hike. This was just right for our kids. Last time we were there we opted for the longer route and continued on through the badlands to Zabriskie Point and back down to the valley for a more challenging 8-mile loop. Whatever route you choose, make sure you have enough water, even during winter months.
This hike is really beautiful with the dramatic rock formations and colors all around. It’s also a popular hike, so start it early if you want to enjoy this peaceful setting in a more quiet way.
Mosaic Canyon Hike
Our second hike in Death Valley National Park was Mosaic Canyon. Joe and I both remembered really liking this hike, and thought it’d be a fun one for the kids. This hike is 4-miles out and back with 1,200 feet elevation gain. Somehow this hike felt easier for our kids than Golden Canyon. The terrain is varied, but the best parts are at the beginning when you go through a marble mini-slot canyon, and at the end when you have to scramble up some rock faces! Kids loved this hike and I totally recommend it. Afterwards we stopped at Stovepipe Wells Village for a refreshment at the saloon.
Natural Bridge Hike
Natural Bridge is a quick 2-mile round trip hike to see this cool rock formation. You can continue hiking past the arch, but most people turn around there. We did this hike on a late afternoon around sunset time and it was beautiful. This short hike can easily be combined with a visit to Badwater Basin and Devil’s Golf course.
Unfortunately, the northern part of the park was closed due to flooding when we visited. Once it reopens, I definitely recommend checking it out! We thoroughly enjoyed visiting Scotty’s Castle, Ubehebe Crater, and hiking Fall Canyon Trail in that area. We are hoping to visit the Racetrack next time we are there!
Stargazing
Death Valley National Park has some of the darkest night skies in the United States, making it an ideal location for stargazing! Head over to the Harmony Borax Works for a guided stargazing experience. Or simply find a dark spot in the park to setup and admire the night sky. Allow at least 20 minutes for your eyes to fully adjust to the dark in order to see the best stars you’ll ever see!
Death Valley was the third International Dark Sky Park in the U.S. National Park System certified by the International Dark-Sky Association. The park has worked over the years to improve exterior lighting at facilities in the Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells areas. They have reduced energy consumption, sky glow, and glare. The designation requires the park to maintain its efforts to protect night sky resources and provide visitor education on dark skies.
Alabama Hills
When Joe’s parents learned that we were going to be driving to Death Valley, they recommended we stop at the Alabama Hills on our way back to San Francisco. This detour added about an extra hour to our drive, but it was so worth it!
Turns out this spot is not just beautiful, but also quite iconic as many Hollywood movies have been filmed here! We did the Mobius Arch Loop Trail, and it was really fun. There were lots of awesome rocks for us to climb, and the views of the Sierra Nevada mountains were stunning. Such a lovely spot, we are already thinking about going back to camp there in the future.
Are you planning a trip to Death Valley National Park? Hope this post was helpful. If you have any questions, send me a message, or check out my places section for more travel inspiration!
