In December 2022 our family spent 5 days in Lisbon. This was our second time visiting Portugal’s capital, but our first time there with our kids. We had been to Lisbon in 2011, and spent a lovely week exploring this great city. In fact, when we first visited, we knew we wanted to go back once we had kids. So, when the opportunity came up, we were more than excited to go back to Lisbon with our kids!
Back in 2019, after finishing our RTW trip, we thought about moving to Lisbon, but moved to San Francisco instead. In some ways, there are a lot of things about Lisbon that remind us of San Francisco. The obvious ones are the trams, the hills, and the fact that they even have a bridge that looks just like the Golden Gate Bridge! On top of that, we loved how charming Lisbon is. There’s art all over the city, and even the cute stone sidewalks make up beautiful patterns! I could go on and on sharing what I love about Lisbon, but I think the best way to find out is to visit this beautiful and quaint European city.
Lisbon has become a lot more popular since we first visited in October 2011. Some of the main attractions can get very crowded so it’s good to plan ahead and try to arrive to the popular sites early to avoid big crowds. Even though we were there during winter time, there were still lots of tourists. I don’t want to think about what it must be like during summer time.
If you are planning on visiting Lisbon with (or without) kids, here’s what we did, where we stayed, and what we’d like to see more of next time we visit.
Where To Stay
We first visited Lisbon before Airbnb was a thing, so we had to look for short term rentals in the city. We found a place that looked good and fit the budget, so we went with it. After meeting our host outside the Sé de Lisboa (the Lisbon Cathedral), we walked through a maze of alleyways to our apartment in the heart of the Alfama. We were immediately in love with the area, and completely star-struck by the gorgeous water views from our apartment!
So, when we knew we were going back, we knew where we wanted to stay: the Alfama. We booked this cute apartment on Airbnb, even though it was on a 5th floor without an elevator. We figured it’d be part of the experience, and were happy to see the kids didn’t mind doing the stairs twice daily. In fact, they had fun counting the steps (115 of them), and getting to know the Christmas decorations outside the different apartments in the building.
This area is especially nice because there’s a lot to see and do nearby. It is also quiet at night, especially compared to other areas in the city. There are lots of good eateries nearby in the area by the Cathedral and down by the river as well. You just can’t beat the charm of the old narrow streets and the stunning water views in the Alfama!
What To Do In Lisbon
Bring comfortable shoes because you’ll be doing lots of walking, and lots of going up and down stairs everywhere in the city!
Alfama District
On our first full day in Lisbon we set off to explore the Alfama with our kids. We wandered around the narrow alleys, and slowly made our way up to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia. This overlook is the perfect stop to rest, get an espresso or beer, and take in the stunning views of the city. You could also ride the 28 tram to this spot if you’d rather skip the climb.
Take your time to explore this area. Small squares are tucked away where you least expect it. And as you go up, don’t forget to enjoy the views! And don’t forget to visit the Sé de Lisboa, and wait for the 28 tram to go by for a perfect photo!
Castelo de Sao Jorge
From the overlook, find the stairs that lead up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge. Established by the Romans in 200bc, this hilltop castle has become one of the city’s main tourist attractions. Its rich history includes the Romans, the Visigoths, and the conflict between the Christian and Arab worlds. It has survived sieges, and witnessed the birth of Portugal as a nation!
Visitors can walk on all the ramparts and check out the towers (lots of narrow and steep stairs). Enjoy the view of Lisbon from the Praca d’Armas, and take a break in the shaded garden of Paco da Alcacova ruins (keep your eyes out for peacocks!), and learn about the castle’s history in the museum. Kids under 10 enter for free. Expect to spend between one and two hours there.
This site is an example of how busy Lisbon has gotten. When we first visited, we were easily the only people in the castle. This time around it was quite different! Best time to visit would be first thing in the morning to avoid the crowds. Alternatively, visit in the afternoon to enjoy a beautiful sunset from the castle terrace.
Baixa (Downtown)
Start your exploration around Praca do Comercio, which is probably one of the most popular tourist places in Lisbon. This square is the biggest one in the city, and it offers lovely views of the Tejo Estuary. On the opposite side from the river is the Arco da Rua Augusta. You can go up to the top to enjoy panoramic views (3 Euros, or free with Lisboa Card). This is classic Lisbon at its best, but I would mostly avoid the nearby restaurants as they are really overpriced.
From Praca do Comercio you can walk up Rua Augusta all the way to Rossio Square. Rossio is the liveliest square in the city (trains to Sintra leave from the nearby Rossio Station). This is where locals come to relax and have a drink. The square is really beautiful and worth a visit. Kids can have a good run around there while chasing pigeons! During our holiday time, there was a super cute Christmas market setup there.
From Rossio Square, head over to the Santa Justa Lift to ride up to Barrios Altos (the most economical way is to buy a transit day card because then you can ride the elevator and the trams, or use the Lisboa card). Built in 1902 by Raoul de Messier du Ponsard, this elevator is a well-loved landmark in the city. Messier du Ponsard was an apprentice of Gustave Eiffel, which explains the structure’s similarities to the Eiffel Tower in Paris.
We didn’t ride this elevator on our first visit to Lisbon, but gave it a try this time. We waited for 20 minutes to ride it. The ride was quick, but I enjoyed it. Once at the top, the view was spectacular. Was it worth it? I’d say yes, because it saved our kids the climb up to Bairro Alto.
Bairro Alto
After taking the lift to Bairro Alto, explore the Medieval ruins and museum at the Carmo Convent. If you are not in the mood for going in, simply take a break in the square while admiring the exterior. From there you can head in any direction and just explore!
We chose to slowly make our way to the Bica Elevator because I wanted to photograph this famous funicular. When exploring a city, we always opt for walking on smaller streets, and this is a true delight in Lisbon! I especially love the stairways all over this area. After reaching the top of the Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo (the top of the funicular), we continued towards the Miradouro de Santa Catarina.
If you are looking at photographing the Bica funicular, walk along one of the side streets, find a good spot and wait for the funicular to go by. The funiculars run periodically and they usually go in pairs: one up and one down at the same time. We ended up unexpectedly exploring this area while searching for a good photo spot.
Oceanário De Lisboa (Lisbon’s Aquarium)
Lisbon’s aquarium is the world’s largest salt water oceanarium, and it’s become a popular destination for families visiting Lisbon. Tickets are 22Euros for adults, 15Euros for kids between 3 and 12, and free for children under 2 years.
We didn’t visit the aquarium this time. We met up with friends in Lisbon who chose to visit it, and they absolutely loved it! Instead our family opted for this next attraction:
Pavilhão Do Conhecimento (Pavilion of Knowledge)
This museum is located right next to the aquarium (in Parque das Nacoes). We rode bus 782 there, and caught it a couple of blocks from Praca do Comercio. It was about a 30-minute ride. Google Maps worked super well for figuring out transit routes, so that’s what we used to plan our outings.
Our kids loved the Pavilion! We easily spent 2+ hours there and didn’t even get to see all the exhibits. This interactive science and technology museum aims to make science accessible to all. Its exhibits stimulate experimentation and exploration of the physical world. Our son even got a chance to build a robot, and our daughter designed her own Christmas tree ornament!
Our kids LOVED the dinosaur exhibit, the electricity area, and the experience of riding a bicycle over a tightrope! Such a unique place!
Tickets for adults are 11Euros, children ages 3-11 are 8Euros, and children ages 12-17 are 9Euros. Kids under 2 are free. We opted for the family entrance and paid 28Euros for the four of us.
Belem
Visiting Belem from Lisbon is super easy! From Praca do Comercio, catch the 15 tram to Belem and get off at Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. The ride can get very crowded and takes about 20 minutes. The monastery, along with Belém Tower are some of the most visited sites in Lisbon!
The monastery was designated UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. It was built to commemorate the return of Vasco da Gama from India. It took roughly 100 years to complete it! We visited the inside of the monastery during our first visit to Lisbon and really enjoyed it!
Once you are finished visiting the monastery, take the underground walkway to the Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries). This 52-meter tall monument commemorates the 500th anniversary of Henry the Navigator, who “discovered” the Azores, Madeira and Cape Verde. Make sure to admire the beautiful marble mosaic at the foot of the monument. The mosaic represents a compass with a world map in the center. We had fun finding our home countries in the giant world map!
From the Monument, walk along the waterfront towards Torre de Belém (Belém Tower). The tower was built between 1514 and 1520 and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. Torre de Belém was used to defend the city, and later was transformed into a lighthouse and customs house. Make sure you take your time admiring the intricate details of the exterior before you go inside. It truly is an architectural jewel!
The inside of the tower is equally stunning! The ground floor has 16 windows with cannons. The tower has 5 floors, leading to a roof terrace. A small and narrow spiral staircase connects each story. If you decide to visit the inside, head straight for the roof terrace and then make your way down . That way you won’t be stuck having to wait for turns to go up and down.
There’s a lot more to see in Belém other than these more popular sights. In the immediate area near the Monastery you’ll find the Planetario de Marinha, the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia, the Museu de Marinha (Naval Museum), the Museu Colecao Berardo (Modern and Contemporary Art Museum) and the Centro Cultural de Belém. I’d love to spend more time in Belém next time we visit Portugal!
Day Trip: Sintra
Oh Sintra! I would say that Sintra was my absolute favorite thing we did in Portugal back in 2011. This time around, it was equally beautiful but I was a bit put off by the crowds. I’m glad we visited in the off-season!
Getting to Sintra is quite easy. Trains leave from the Rossio Station (not the Metro), and you can buy tickets in person or at the machines. Rossio-Sintra trains leave every 20 minutes on the weekdays, and every hour on the weekends and holidays. The ride is a pleasant and easy 40 minutes. I recommend you buy roundtrip tickets to avoid queues at the station on your way back.
Once you arrive at Sintra Station, you have a variety of options for going up the hills to where the sites are. You can choose to ride a bus that runs one-way loops around the main sites. Alternatively, you can hire a private tuk-tuk or car to take you around. It is possible to walk up, but be ready to climb a lot!
On our first visit to Sintra, the two of us walked up, stopping at the different sites along the way. We started at the National Palace and ended at Pena Palace. We really enjoyed the leisurely walk, but the bus is definitely a better option when traveling with kids. I recommend going all the way up to the top to Pena Palace, and making your way down from there.
The Palácio Nacional da Pena is probably the most visited site in Sintra, and with good reason. This palace is one of Europe’s finest and most unique. It has a vividly painted exterior, and an interior that was restored to how it appeared in 1910. It is quite unique indeed!
Our kids really liked touring the inside of the palace, and truly enjoyed learning about each of the different rooms. The inside, just like the outside, is quite whimsical and colorful. It was a nice surprise to see that photography is now allowed inside the palace. That was not the case back in 2011. Also, the outside terraces were closed during our latest visit, so check their website before going.
A personal favorite of ours in Sintra is the Castelo dos Mouros. The ruins of this ancient 10th century Moorish castle stand atop a hill, providing an excellent overlook of the coastline and surrounding lands. The Christian Crusaders took it over in 1147, and later abandoned it. The castle was taken over by the forest until the 1800s when King Ferdinand II partially restored the battlements, and transformed it into a showpiece in the grounds of Pena Palace.
The first time we visited, we didn’t see a single other person walking on the castle walls. This time it was a bit more crowded, but nothing compared to Pena Palace. The walls are not that tall, so keep a close eye (and possibly a hand too) on young children when visiting this site.
Another great site to visit is the Palácio Nacional de Sintra, which is hard to miss with its two conical chimneys on top. The current palace is a mix of several buildings constructed, added, and adapted over the course of many centuries. The interior is very interesting, and the tile work is quite impressive in some rooms. We visited this palace during our first time in Sintra, but skipped it last time. I think it’s definitely worth a visit though.
We didn’t get to visit the Quinta da Regaleira because our friends had a younger kiddo that was ready to call it a day. I would love to spend a weekend exploring Sintra someday. The paths in the forest are absolutely stunning. I can picture our family going for lovely hikes and visiting beautiful monuments along the way!
Day Trip: Cascais
We visited this charming beachside town back in 2011 because our host recommended it. Originally a fishing town, the town was transformed after King Luis I decided to setup his summer residence there. The influx of the Portuguese elite turned Cascais into a sophisticated and refined resort town.
While there, we rented bikes and rode along the beach boulevard all the way to the Estoril Casino and back. We had a lovely time relaxing at the beach, and grabbing a drink at one of the many waterfront eateries. If you have the time, I definitely recommend you visit Cascais while in Lisbon!
Where To Eat
Food in Lisbon is not as diverse as in other capital cities such as Madrid or Paris. That being said, you can still eat well if you do your research beforehand, and for a great price outside of touristy areas. In general, we paid between 40 and 60 Euros for a meal for four, including drinks and espressos.
We ate food as we went, so I don’t really have many recommendations for great places to eat, except for a couple:
Time Out Market is Lisbon’s new market and it’s so good! During FIFA’s World Cup, they even had a giant screen setup there to watch the games and it was perfect! This historic market hall hosts 26 restaurants, 8 bars, and a dozen shops offering the best in Lisbon on one section. In the other section you’ll find some of the city’s best known market vendors of meat, fish, fruit and flowers. This is a must stop while in Lisbon!
Another restaurant we recommend is O Cartaxeiro. We found this little gem in the Alfama district one day and loved our meal there. This is a local place and the waiter didn’t speak any English. Despite the language barrier, we were able to communicate between a mix of Spanish and Portuguese. The fish and fries were delicious there. Probably one of our best traditional meals we had while in Lisbon!
If you are thinking about eating breakfast out, I recommend you get their combinations. These come with orange juice, coffee and bread with butter and jam.
Finally, while in Lisbon, you should try Pasteis de Nata. This Portuguese egg custard tart pastry, optionally dusted with cinnamon is a must when visiting Lisbon . Unfortunately, I ate all of mine too quickly and forgot to take a photo. So here’s a photo of a different pastry I ate while in Lisbon instead. I don’t really know what it was called. I just know it was delicious!
There is so much more to do and see in Lisbon than what I describe here, but this is a good start! When we were there before kids, we also visited the Pantheon, Roman ruins, other overlooks and so much more. So I guess what I’m saying is, explore the city however you want. You just can’t go wrong!
We had a wonderful time visiting Lisbon again. It was very exciting to show our kids this city we fell in love with a long time ago. It was also a bit shocking to see how crowded the tourist sites have become! But I’d say it still retains its charm in spite of it. If you are planning to visit Lisbon, I’d recommend you go in the off-season to have a more pleasant visit. The weather in December was totally fine. We only needed a jacket in the evenings, and we only had one afternoon of rain in the 5 days we were there.
If you have any questions about visiting Lisbon, let me know. Or check out my places section to learn about other destinations around the world!
