I can’t believe it’s taken me over a year to sit down to write about our three months in Croatia. In this post I want to share ideas about visiting Split with kids.
We traveled to Split, Croatia in early February 2019 from Valleta, Malta. During our transition to Croatia we managed to sneak in a 12-hour layover in Rome! After three amazing months of exploring so much of Croatia, we left Split in May 2019!
When to go:
We loved being in Croatia during the off-season/shoulder season. We were able to explore the country without the big crowds that are prevalent in the summer months. One perk of this was that we were able to experience the country in a more local fashion. As a result, we were able to have more meaningful interactions with people during that time.
According to the locals we talked to, the best time to visit Croatia is in September and early October. Everyone told us that in September “the sea is warm and the crowds are gone,’ and we’ll definitely schedule our next Croatia trip for September! At this time, businesses are still open but prices have gone down a bit after the summer rush, and you can really get a better taste of the local culture when the crowds have thinned out.
Things to do in Split
The Riva
The Riva, or seafront promenade, has existed for about 200 years, and it is the most popular and important public space in Split. This pedestrian space sits between the Adriatic Sea and the facade of the Diocletian Palace, and is full of restaurants and cafes. It is the perfect place to stop for coffee or a drink. The Riva is where it all happens in Split, so make sure you spend some time there during your visit!
Diocletian Palace
The Diocletian Palace basically comprises the old town of Split. The old town of Split was built around the original palace and it is a great place to explore. This pedestrian-only area is full of Roman ruins, restaurants, and shops and cafes–just walking around it will make you happy!
I recommend you enter the Palace through the Bronze Gate. You’ll go through the underground cellars lined with artisans selling their crafts on both sides. From here you could choose to visit the basement of the Diocletian Palace which is really interesting and worth the time. If you are a Game of Thrones fan, you’ll recognize the basement as the place were Daenerys kept her dragons.
If you decide to save the basement visit for a different time, head straight and up some stairs onto an open air peristyle (courtyard) in front of the Catholic Cathedral of Saint Domnius and its impressive bell tower. This is a great place to sit down to really take it all in. Make sure you don’t miss the Egyptian sphinx. Made of black granite, the sphinx is about 3,500 years old so make sure you take a good look at it!
After you take your time at the peristyle, continue on to explore the rest of stari grad (Old Town) and get lost in the narrow alleys only to find yourself in a new square lined with restaurants and cafes. While you explore, make sure you make it all the way to the back entrance of the palace, where the statue of Gregory of Nin stands. Locals believe that rubbing the big toe on the statue will bring you good luck, so don’t forget to do that!
There is a lovely park on the back of the Old Town, behind the statue of Gregory of Nin. If you are looking for a green area to relax, this would be a good place to do it.
Marjan Park
This hilly park offers a great break from city life. There are several trails that cut through the pine forests, as well as many scenic overlooks, medieval chapels and even a playground!
As you walk up from the old town, make sure you turn back to catch some breathtaking views of Split and the mountains. If you are up for a long walk, head to Kasjuni beach for a swim before catching the bus back to the city. Whatever path you choose to take, you’re guaranteed to have a wonderful time in this urban forest.
Sustipan Park (and dinosaur playground)
Located on the southwest end of the Split harbor, this park was Split’s first cemetery at the beginning of the 19th century, only to be cleared later by the communist authorities after they opened new cemeteries outside the city. The only structure that remains from that time is the Classicistic gloriette.
This park is a true oasis in the city and it offers some of the best views of the city and the harbor as well as of the nearby islands and the incredible Adriatic Sea. Nearby Pizzeria Skipper is a great place to grab lunch or dinner.
Park Za Pse, is a short walk downhill from Sustipan park. There you’ll find a fun dinosaur-themed playground and lots of open space for little ones to run around.
Beaches
Split is lined with beaches and you should go ahead and explore as many as you want–you won’t be disappointed!
Bacvice Beach
This was our go-to beach while in Split. We loved that it was sandy and very shallow, so our kids could play in the water without much supervision–you could walk in for a while and the water will still be below your knees!
There is a kiosk at the top of the stairs (behind the beach) that sells snacks and cold beer, and there are also several beach bars/restaurants very close along the beachside boulevard with good food options. For the little ones there is a playground on the hillside, and you can rent chairs for the day if you fancy some extra comfort.
Radoševac Beach
This beach was just below our apartment building so we went to it a lot. It is a beautiful pebble beach so make sure you have water shoes if you plan on going there. Because it’s a pebble beach, the water here is an unreal turquoise color.
This entire area has a lot to offer, even if it is a bit farther away from the old town. The main street here is closed to cars so it makes a great place to ride bikes or walk around. Right next to the beach are a series of play structures open to the public (for a very small fee) that include big inflatable bouncy slides and obstacle courses, as well as trampolines. There are cafes all around so your kids play while you sit at one of the tables and sip an espresso or a beer. Winning!
At the beginning we didn’t know how things worked at the play areas, but we realized that you just sit down by whatever play area your kids want to go to, and someone will come to take your order and charge you for your kids’ entrance, which is not much at all.
If you walk along the beachfront walkway from Bacvice to Radoševac you’ll find many more beaches that are also beautiful and worth checking out.
Meštrović Gallery
This museum houses the biggest collection of Ivan Mestrovic’s work. Mestrovic is Croatia’s best know modern sculptor. The museum is housed in the same place he constructed as a personal residence in the 1930s. Our kids enjoyed walking around the museum and checking out the sculptures. Their favorite part was playing around the gardens. We took Uber to the gallery and then walked back to the city center, which was totally doable.
Eat
Food in Split reminded us of Italian food. Pasta, pizza, and fresh seafood are staples at most restaurants in Split.
While we were in Split we didn’t eat out much, but here’s a couple of places we visited and liked. Fife is great for eating copious amounts of calamari. Pizzeria Bokamorra was our favorite pizza place. We loved their pizza options (dessert pizza was amazing!), and their IPA options. For the best gelato in Split head to Slastičarna Riva right on the Riva. Grab lunch at Mama Burger inside the Diocletian Palace. We did a couple of times and really liked the food and the beer selection. Another tasty and also trendy place is Fabrique, a pub-style restaurant on the north end of the Riva. Since we were traveling on a budget, all of these recommendations are affordable but delicious!
Malls
Split has a couple of very nice malls for those who enjoy shopping. We usually went to malls on rainy days or when the Bura (strong winds coming from the East) came in. We found some brands to be cheaper in Split than in other parts of Europe or the United States. For example, I scored a pair of Birkenstocks for about 20 euros less than they would’ve cost in the U.S.
Split Center Mall and City Center Mall are the best malls in Split. We always used Uber to get there and back quickly and cheaply.
Around Split
Salona
Just northeast of Split are the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Salona, an important archeological complex worth visiting. You can explore free range here. The highlight of our visit was wandering around the amphitheater and pretending to be gladiators. While you are walking around the complex don’t forget to look up at the amazing views of the mountains!
Klis Fortress
This impressive medieval fortress is located above Klis village and only a 15-minute drive from Split. It was the seat of many Croatian kids and eventually became a fortress used during the Ottoman wars in Europe. For over 2000 years and due to its strategic location, this fortress has been key in defending Dalmatia. Nowadays, people flock to the fortress after it featured in Game of Thrones.
Islands
Split is the gateway to some of the most popular Croatian islands. Islands such as Brac, Solta, Hvar, Vis, Lastovo, Korcula and Vis can be reached from Split by ferries or catamarans in 30 minutes or more. If you have the time, it is definitely worth checking out at least one of the islands in the area.
Brac is the closest and can be reached in less than an hour. Vis is the farthermost island and, depending on the route, you can get there in about an hour and a half (two and a half if you take the slower ferry).
As the second largest city in Croatia, there’s a lot to do in Split. You will certainly not run out of things to do during your time there!
For a suggested itinerary for visiting the Dalmatian coast and for day trip ideas from Split, see this post. To read about our week-long stay in the island of Vis, click here. If you are planning to visit the Istria Peninsula, check out this post to read about our 2 weeks there.
